Hello! I’m Giulia from Agriturismo I Due Ghiri, and today I’d like to share with you a corner of Liguria that’s close to my heart: the Gulf of Poets. While the Cinque Terre attract crowds of tourists, we often overlook the authentic and peaceful beauty of this enchanting gulf, which stretches from Lerici to Portovenere, passing through Tellaro and La Spezia.
Our agriturismo, nestled in the lush nature of the Val di Vara, is the perfect starting point to explore these charming villages. In just 30 minutes by car, you can reach the golden beaches of Lerici, the dramatic cliffs of Portovenere, and the picturesque alleys of Tellaro.
What is the Gulf of Poets?
The Gulf of Poets is a beautiful bay located in the eastern part of Liguria, stretching from Portovenere to Lerici and embracing the city of La Spezia. The romantic name of this gulf was coined in 1910 by playwright Sem Benelli, in honor of the many poets and writers who found inspiration in these places—among them Lord Byron, Percy Bysshe Shelley, Mary Shelley, Petrarch, and Montale.
My Favorite Places in the Gulf of Poets
Lerici: Where It All Began
Lerici is part of my childhood—where I first fell in love with the sea and nature. I still remember the walks along the promenade with friends, grabbing gelato in Piazza Garibaldi, and spending days playing on the beach at San Terenzo. The Lerici Castle that towers over the village was my fairytale place: I used to imagine princesses and knights within its walls.
What to See in Lerici
Lerici Castle
Overlooking the village, Lerici Castle is a fascinating historical landmark. Built in the 12th century, it offers a breathtaking view of the gulf and hosts a geopaleontological museum that delights both kids and adults.
Piazza Garibaldi
The beating heart of Lerici is Piazza Garibaldi, where you can truly feel the authentic Ligurian atmosphere. Here, among cafés and small restaurants, it’s a pleasure to stop for an aperitif or simply observe village life.
The Beaches
Lerici boasts some of Liguria’s most beautiful beaches. Venere Azzurra Beach is perfect for families, while Baia Blu offers crystal-clear waters ideal for snorkeling.
Experiences Not to Miss
Boat Tours
One of the most exciting experiences is a boat tour of the Gulf of Poets. Cruising the turquoise waters, discovering hidden coves, and seeing the villages from the sea is truly unforgettable.
Scenic Hiking Trails
For trekking lovers, the trails connecting Lerici to Tellaro offer spectacular views. Walking among olive groves and Mediterranean scrub, with the sea always on the horizon, is truly rejuvenating.
How to Reach Lerici from Agriturismo I Due Ghiri
From our agriturismo, Lerici is easily reached in about 30 minutes by car. The scenic drive leads you directly to the heart of the village—ready for an authentic experience.
Tellaro: The Fairytale Village
Just a few kilometers from Lerici lies Tellaro, a small fishing village that looks like it came out of a postcard. Its colorful houses, the Church of San Giorgio perched above the sea, and its narrow alleys create a magical atmosphere. As a child, I loved listening to local legends and getting lost in the village’s winding streets.
What to See in Tellaro
The Historic Center
Wandering through Tellaro’s alleys is like traveling back in time. Pastel-colored houses, fishermen’s boats, and the smell of the sea create a unique atmosphere. Every corner tells a story—every view a postcard.
Church of San Giorgio
Built on the cliffs, the Church of San Giorgio is Tellaro’s iconic landmark. Built in the 16th century, it offers a stunning view of the sea. According to legend, a giant octopus climbed the bell tower and rang the bells to warn villagers of a pirate attack, saving the town.
Must-Do Experiences
A Sunset Walk
Sunset in Tellaro is pure magic. Sitting on the rocks, listening to the waves, and watching the sun dive into the sea is a soul-touching moment.
The Octopus Festival
Every year on the second Sunday of August, Tellaro hosts the Octopus Festival. The streets come alive with aromas, music, and joy. It’s the perfect opportunity to taste the famous “polpo alla tellarese” and dive into local traditions.
Underwater Christmas
On Christmas Eve, Tellaro lights up with magic. A statue of baby Jesus is brought up from the sea by divers and placed in a nativity scene surrounded by thousands of candles and fireworks. A truly unique event.
Tellaro’s Flavors
Tellaro’s cuisine is bursting with authentic flavors. The “polpo alla tellarese,” boiled with potatoes and seasoned with local olive oil, olives, garlic, parsley, and lemon, is a must-try. Another specialty is the spicy “polpo all’inferno,” stewed with bay leaves, marjoram, chili, tomato, and white wine. And for sweet lovers, the sweet focaccia with raisins, pine nuts, and candied fruit is irresistible.
How to Reach Tellaro from Agriturismo I Due Ghiri
Tellaro is easily reached from our agriturismo in about 30 minutes by car via scenic roads—perfect for an authentic getaway.
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Portovenere: History and Poetry by the Sea
Portovenere is another gem of the Gulf of Poets. The Church of San Pietro, perched on a rocky promontory, offers a breathtaking sea view. Byron’s Cave—where the English poet loved to swim—is a place full of mystery and charm. Every time I visit Portovenere, I feel transported to another time.
What to See in Portovenere
Church of San Pietro
Perched on a cliff above the sea, the Church of San Pietro is one of Portovenere’s landmarks. Built in 1198 on the ruins of a pagan temple dedicated to Venus, it offers breathtaking views.
Byron’s Cave
Just below the church is Byron’s Cave, where the English poet swam and found inspiration. It’s a spot filled with mystery and poetic energy.
Doria Castle
The Doria Castle is a majestic fortress that dominates the village. Built between the 12th and 14th centuries, it offers spectacular views of the Gulf of Poets.
Historic Center
Wander through the historic center to admire colorful houses and narrow alleys called “caruggi,” rich in history and tradition.
Must-Do Experiences
Scenic Trails
For hiking lovers, the trails connecting Portovenere to the Cinque Terre offer unforgettable views of the sea and lush countryside.
How to Reach Portovenere from Agriturismo I Due Ghiri
Portovenere is about 40 minutes by car from our agriturismo. Follow the scenic roads straight into the heart of this poetic village.
La Spezia: A City of Sea and Culture
La Spezia is the heart of the Gulf of Poets. With its museums—like the Naval Museum—and its lively fish market, it offers the perfect blend of culture and tradition. It’s also the main departure point for ferries to the Cinque Terre and the gulf’s islands, making it a great base to explore the area.
To learn more about this wonderful city, we recommend reading our previous article on what to do in La Spezia.
Unforgettable Experiences in the Gulf of Poets
A Day by Boat
One of the most magical experiences I recommend to guests is a boat trip around the gulf. Swim in clear waters, explore secret coves, and sail past the islands of Palmaria, Tino, and Tinetto.
The Poets’ Trail
For hiking enthusiasts, the Poets’ Trail offers sweeping views of the gulf. It links the coastal villages through forests and olive groves—perfect for immersing in nature and local history.
How to Reach the Gulf of Poets from Agriturismo I Due Ghiri
Our agriturismo is located in Calice al Cornoviglio, in the peaceful Val di Vara. In just 30 minutes by car, you can reach Lerici, Tellaro, Portovenere, and La Spezia. We also provide maps and personalized tips to help plan your adventures in the gulf.
Conclusion: The Gulf of Poets Is Waiting… and So Are We!
If you’re looking for a farmhouse stay in the Gulf of Poets that combines authenticity, peace, and a perfect location to explore true Liguria, Agriturismo I Due Ghiri is the perfect choice. Surrounded by unspoiled nature in Val di Vara, our agriturismo is the ideal base to discover the wonders of Lerici, Tellaro, Portovenere, and La Spezia.
We look forward to welcoming you and sharing the magic of these special places with you—offering a stay full of relaxation, delicious food, and warm hospitality. Come visit us and let yourself be enchanted by the charm of the Gulf of Poets!
FAQ: Visiting the Gulf of Poets
Are there parking options in Lerici, Tellaro, and Portovenere?
Yes, all three villages have paid parking areas near the town centers. During high season, it’s advisable to arrive early to find a spot more easily.
Where can I taste typical local cuisine?
At Agriturismo I Due Ghiri, we serve traditional dishes made with local ingredients. You’ll also find plenty of restaurants in the villages offering Ligurian specialties such as:
– Polpo alla tellarese (Tellaro-style octopus) in Tellaro
– Stuffed mussels (muscoli ripieni) in Lerici, especially in Piazza Garibaldi
– Fresh seafood and Ligurian focaccia in Portovenere
When is the best time to visit the Gulf of Poets?
Spring and autumn are ideal seasons to enjoy mild weather, colorful landscapes, and peaceful villages.
Can I take boat tours in the gulf?
Yes, there are many private and shared boat tours available to explore the gulf, hidden coves, and the islands of Palmaria, Tino, and Tinetto.
Are there hiking trails in the area?
Absolutely! The Sentiero dei Poeti (Poets’ Trail) and other scenic paths connect the villages, offering breathtaking views over the sea and through Mediterranean vegetation.
How can I reach the Gulf of Poets from Agriturismo I Due Ghiri?
In about 30–40 minutes by car, following signs to La Spezia and then to each coastal village. We also provide maps, custom advice, and assistance with transfers or rentals.