Hello everyone, I'm Giulia from Agriturismo I Due Ghiri.
Let me share with you my impressions of La Spezia, a charming seaside town. Originally a small village, it grew significantly in the 19th century thanks to the Savoy naval arsenal. Today, La Spezia is full of history and art, with breathtaking views over the Gulf of Poets and delicious dishes from the Ligurian culinary tradition. After a visit to the city center, there's nothing better than returning to our agriturismo and relaxing in the greenery.
A bit of La Spezia’s history
La Spezia and its surrounding area have been inhabited since prehistoric times. In Roman times, the main settlement was Luni (founded in 177 B.C. at the mouth of the Magra River). In the Middle Ages, the city was linked to Genoa: between 1256 and 1273, it became the seat of the Signoria of Niccolò Fieschi, under Genoese influence. After the unification of Italy in 1861, the city developed rapidly thanks to the construction of a major naval arsenal, making La Spezia one of Italy's most important military ports. The Naval Museum, still located in the former arsenal in the city center, is a reminder of that period.
What to see in La Spezia
La Spezia is a city that rewards those who take the time to explore it slowly. Its tidy, welcoming historic center unfolds among elegant pedestrian streets and lively squares. Our itinerary starts at Piazza Garibaldi, with the Fontana delle Vele, a modern landmark symbolizing openness and connection.
From here, you enter Via del Prione, the main pedestrian street, lined with shops, cafés, and historic buildings. You'll find several interesting museums here: the refined Amedeo Lia Museum, with artworks from the Middle Ages to the 18th century, and the unusual Seal Museum, home to thousands of historical seals from around the world.
Further along, you’ll find the Podenzana Ethnographic Museum and the Diocesan Museum, both housed in the former Oratory of San Bernardino. But the real charm of the area lies in the atmosphere itself: with hidden alleys and unexpected corners, the historic center of La Spezia invites you to wander.
Passeggiata Morin and the Gulf of Poets
One of my favorite places is Passeggiata Costantino Morin, a seaside promenade lined with trees, popular with families, joggers, and dreamers. From here, you’ll enjoy stunning views over the Gulf of Poets, with sailboats, green hills, and the Apuan Alps in the distance.
At one end of the promenade is the modern Thaon di Revel bridge, connecting the city to the Mirabello Marina. At the opposite end, Piazza Europa hosts the Cathedral of Christ the King, designed by architect Adalberto Libera, with a distinctive glass dome reflecting the Ligurian sky.
San Giorgio Castle and panoramic views
If you love views, don't miss San Giorgio Castle, perched above the city center. You can reach it on foot via staircases or more comfortably by taking the underground elevator. From the tower, you’ll enjoy a breathtaking panorama of the harbor and the gulf.
Inside, the archaeological museum features the fascinating Lunigiana stele statues, mysterious anthropomorphic sculptures from the Iron Age. Near the castle, don’t miss the Church of Santa Maria Assunta, rebuilt in the 15th century and richly decorated with frescoes.
How to get to La Spezia from the agriturismo
From our Agriturismo I Due Ghiri, located in the green Val di Vara (Calice al Cornoviglio, Usurana), getting to La Spezia is easy. By car, it takes about 30 minutes (25 km) along the A15 motorway to Vezzano Ligure, then on the SP370 and SP1 Aurelia heading south. Just follow signs for La Spezia – Vezzano L. – Calice al Cornoviglio, then turn toward the sea.
If you're not driving, there's a direct bus from Piazza Chiodo in La Spezia to Calice (around 1 hour 15 minutes). Once in La Spezia, the train station is centrally located, and you can explore the whole city on foot.
Typical cuisine of La Spezia
La Spezia offers simple, tasty seafood dishes. One of the most famous is farinata di ceci, a Ligurian chickpea flour flatbread baked in a wood-fired oven – crispy outside and soft inside. Another must-try is stuffed mussels alla spezzina, oven-baked mussels with breadcrumbs, cheese, and herbs.
And don’t miss the cod fritters (frisceu in dialect): crispy, savory balls of salted cod fried in oil. In the city’s traditional restaurants or the indoor market, you’ll also find fish soups, trofie with pesto, and local white wines.
For a truly genuine experience, try the dinners at our farmhouse: zero-kilometer ingredients from our garden are the stars of every dish, often with a Ligurian twist – like stuffed vegetables and lemon desserts.
Agriturismo I Due Ghiri: relaxation after the city
After a full day in the city, coming back to the agriturismo is a real pleasure. Agriturismo I Due Ghiri is surrounded by the greenery of Val di Vara and offers you the peace of the countryside. Our spacious rooms have views over the surrounding hills, and at sunset I recommend a walk in the garden, perhaps with freshly picked fruit or a glass of local wine.
Tranquility, authentic flavors, and warm hospitality make our farmhouse the ideal retreat near La Spezia. In the morning, after a homemade breakfast, you’ll be ready to explore another corner of Liguria.
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Frequently Asked Questions (FAQ)
What are the main attractions in La Spezia?
If you have just one day, I recommend starting at Piazza Garibaldi with the Fontana delle Vele, then walking along Via del Prione all the way to the public gardens. Along the way, you can visit the Amedeo Lia Civic Museum and the Seal Museum. In the historic center, make time for the San Giorgio Castle (with its panoramic views) and the Church of Santa Maria Assunta. The Passeggiata Morin is a lovely seafront promenade, and the port area extends all the way to the Thaon di Revel pedestrian bridge.
What typical dishes can I try in La Spezia?
La Spezia's cuisine is mostly seafood-based. Meals often start with cod fritters and small fish tastings. Local specialties include chickpea farinata (crispy and flavorful) and stuffed mussels (oven-baked with breadcrumbs and cheese). Also worth trying are fish soups and trofie pasta with pesto. Traditional restaurants in the city offer the genuine, time-honored flavors of Liguria.
How can I get to La Spezia from Agriturismo I Due Ghiri?
By car, you can reach La Spezia in about 30 minutes (23 km) by taking the A15 motorway to Vezzano Ligure, then continuing on local roads to the sea. The full itinerary is also listed on our website. From Calice al Cornoviglio, there's a direct bus to La Spezia (running 6 days a week). Once you're in the city, everything is within walking distance or reachable by local transport.
Why choose a farmhouse near La Spezia?
Staying in the hills at Agriturismo I Due Ghiri means enjoying the peacefulness of the woods after the energy of the city. You can explore La Spezia and the Cinque Terre by day, then unwind in nature in the evening. You'll have comfortable rooms, homemade local food, and warm, family-style hospitality. It’s the perfect way to experience an authentic side of Liguria – between sea and countryside.